The next day I was Googling recipes for cherry tomato marmalade. None of them quite appealed to me but Mark Bittman's recipe featured on Epicurious gave me a template to work from. My first batch was fairly small. I had a generous 4 cups of diced raw tomato, skin on. I assumed that was about the right weight. I added the sugar and a generous amount of chopped lemon basil. (If you aren't familiar with lemon basil, familiarize yourself ASAP. It has a very bright, fresh flavor -- much more delicate than regular sweet basil -- with a lemony undertone. We planted two tiny seedlings this year that are both now big and bushy. It's quite hearty and easy to grow.) I ended up needing to add more basil, salt, and some lemon juice for some acidity. It was yummy, but I wasn't overly fond of the texture of the bit of skin in the jam. I also let it *almost* overcook and it was a bit stickier than I preferred, rather difficult to spread.
Yesterday I had considerably more tomatoes than I did starting my first batch. I blanched, shocked, cooled, and peeled them this time. This is the easiest way to de-skin tomatoes. (Best to do them in batches.) Bring a big stock pot of water to a boil and drop in 3 or 4 big tomatoes or a dozen or so plum or cherry tomatoes. When the natural juices inside the tomato come to a boil the steam will create pressure inside the skin and the tomato will split its skin - sometimes with an audible *pop*! Use a straining scoop to remove the popped tomatoes to a bowl of cold water to stop the cooking then transfer them to a colander to make room in the water for more tomatoes. You may have to switch out your water as dumping boiling hot tomatoes into cool water tends to make the water hot.
After you've blanched, shocked, and drained all your tomatoes, wait for them to cool before handling. Even after shocking them in cold water they can still remain too warm to touch for quite a while. Once they are cool, the skins should pop right off. If you pinch a cherry tomato right, the pulp squirts out like the inside of a muscadine grape when you pinch it. The larger tomatoes are a little more difficult. Prepare to get your hands messy. You will have to squeeze and pull to get the tomato pulp separated from the stem and the fibrous part of the tomato below the stem. Once you've peeled all of your tomatoes, you can either get your hands in and squish them or whiz them in a food processor or blender depending on what kind of texture you want. I found that hand squishing kept too many of the cherry and plum tomatoes intact and ended up giving it a quick whiz to break up whole tomatoes, but still have some chunks for texture. I ended up with about 8 cups of peeled tomato.
I rinsed out my stock pot and dumped in my tomatoes, a teaspoon of salt, 2 cups of sugar, two generous handfuls of chopped lemon basil leaves, the juice of half a lemon, and brought my concoction to a boil.
Then I settled in to watch Gordon Ramsey's Master Chef while they simmered away. In the episode I was watching, Gordon was instructing his contestants on how to make minestrone. One step involved putting a large sprig of fresh basil over the chopped vegetables, already covered in stock, to allow it to simmer and steep like the basil was a tea bag. I immediately went out and snipped off several large sprigs of lemon basil and tossed them into the pot. Then I decided I didn't want to spend the next couple of hours babysitting a stock pot of tomato jam. I turned off the flame, put the lid on, poured a glass of wine, and curled up beside the hub on the couch, eventually drifting off while watching vintage episodes of The French Chef with Julia Childs on Amazon.
This morning I came downstairs and immediately commenced tomato jamming. I removed the sprigs of lemon basil and brought the pot back to a boil over medium heat. I patiently waited, ate breakfast, played on Twitter, stirred it periodically, pondered the meaning of life, debated whether I should go ahead and start on my psych homework, stirred again. The tomatoes bubbled away, reducing, concentrating. The water on the top cooked down to syrup and the syrup eventually evaporated away leaving a thick stew of tomato solids, shiny with the sugar. I wasn't sure if I'd hit the jam point yet or not. I tasted it, checked for flavor, added more lemon basil, and let it reduce a bit more. I'd reduced by about 2/3 of it's original amount by this time.
Eventually the idea occurred to me to put a teaspoon of jam in a small dish in the fridge for about 5 minutes to see what the cooled texture would be like. Five minutes I waited, stirring frequently, willing my jam not to burn to the bottom of the pan. I pulled the small dish out of the fridge and lo and behold -- I had jam!
I probably should have taken a picture at this point. Sorry.
I'd promised my mother I'd send her a sample of my next batch of jam because she didn't believe she'd like basil in jam. (She will soon find out the magic of lemon basil and admit to the error of her ways.) I had obtained a tiny mason jar containing a single shot of apple flavored "moonshine" for this purpose. Hub did the honors of emptying the tiny jar for me. He said it tasted awful. This was the second tiny moonshine jar I've used for tomato jam and I disposed of the last shot. It wasn't as bad as he said. Either way, the jar sure is cute.
While my tomatoes were simmering, I boiled the thoroughly cleaned jar, label removed, with the lid for about 3 minutes to sterilize it. I left it in the water to cool while the tomatoes simmered. Then when the tomato jam was done, but still boiling hot, I spooned jam into the sterile jar and screwed the lid on tightly. I know this isn't technically the correct canning procedure, but I think it'll keep the jam good for the amount of time required to mail it from Ohio to North Carolina.
The rest of the jam was dispersed into a variety of empty jars. (We generally save glass jars to reuse rather than recycling. Most of our "glasses" used for drinking are actually empty jars.)
I ended up with a total of about 3ish cups of jam. (Remember, for reference, the front jar is a 2 oz shot glass jar.) The other jars had been thoroughly cleaned in the dish washer but I didn't bother sterilizing them. Jam should keep good for as long as I need it to in the fridge without needing a sterilized jar.
I took the suggestion of mutual follow Twitterer @uncutmyhair and used some of the cooled jam in a grilled cheese sandwich -- provolone (because that's what I have) on multi-grain seeded bread. I didn't get a picture because I was hungry and ate it. It was as good as I had imagined.
I still have half a quart sized Mason jar of ricotta cheese my BFF and I made last weekend from local milk sitting in the fridge. I'm thinking maybe I need to make a ricotta tart with a flaky, buttery pastry crust and top it with a dollop of tomato jam.
Recipes to me are merely sources of inspiration. They are not direct edicts set in stone. If you want to make jam and don't have any lemon basil (in which case I pity you) use something else you have on hand. Thyme might be good. Salsa flavors like hot peppers and cilantro (if you're into cilantro, which I'm not - yuck!) and lime for the acid element would work well for a spicy tomato jam. You could spice it up like the Bittman recipe, but that doesn't look appetizing to me at all. Whatever you do, have fun with it and hit me back in the comments with your combination and usage suggestions.
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